Kawasaki Ninja Service Manual: Troubleshooting Guide

NOTE

• Refer to the Fuel System chapter for most of DFI trouble shooting guide.
• This is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of the more common difficulties.

Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting Difficulty:

Starter motor not rotating:

Ignition and engine stop switch not ON

Starter lockout switch or gear position switch trouble

Starter motor trouble

Battery voltage low

Starter relay not contacting or operating

Starter button not contacting

Starter system wiring shorted or open

Ignition switch trouble

Engine stop switch trouble

Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown

Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t turn over:

Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off

Immobilizer system trouble (Equipped Models)

Starter clutch trouble

Starter idle gear trouble

Engine won’t turn over:

Valve seizure

Valve lifter seizure

Cylinder, piston seizure

Crankshaft seizure

Connecting rod small end seizure

Connecting rod big end seizure

Transmission gear or bearing seizure

Camshaft seizure

Starter idle gear seizure

Balancer bearing seizure

No fuel flow:

No fuel in tank

Fuel pump trouble

Fuel tank air vent obstructed

Fuel filter clogged

Fuel line clogged

No spark; spark weak:

Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off

Ignition switch not ON

Engine stop switch turned OFF

Clutch lever not pulled in or gear not in neutral

Battery voltage low

Immobilizer system trouble (Equipped Models)

Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted

Spark plug incorrect

Stick coil shorted or not in good contact

Stick coil trouble

ECU trouble

Gear position, starter lockout, or sidestand switch trouble

Crankshaft sensor trouble

Ignition switch or engine stop switch shorted

Starter system wiring shorted or open

Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Bypass screw maladjusted Air passage clogged

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing

Leak from oil filler cap, crankcase breather

hose or air cleaner drain hose.

Compression Low:

Spark plug loose

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down

Cylinder, piston worn

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Cylinder head gasket damaged

Cylinder head warped

Valve spring broken or weak

No valve clearance

Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)

Poor Running at Low Speed:

Spark weak:

Battery voltage low

Immobilizer system trouble (Equipped Models)

Stick coil trouble

Stick coil shorted or not in good contact

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

Spark plug incorrect

ECU trouble

Crankshaft sensor trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Bypass screw maladjusted

Air passage clogged

Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged

Pilot passage clogged

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing

Fuel tank air vent obstructed

Fuel pump trouble

Fuel to injector insufficient

Fuel line clogged

Throttle body assy holder loose

Air cleaner housing holder loose

Compression low:

Spark plug loose

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down

No valve clearance

Cylinder, piston worn

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Cylinder head gasket damaged

Cylinder head warped

Valve spring broken or weak

Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)

Camshaft cam worn

Run-on (dieseling):

Ignition switch trouble

Engine stop switch trouble

Fuel injector trouble

Loosen terminal of battery (–) cable or ECU ground lead

Carbon accumulating on valve seating surface Engine overheating

Other:

ECU trouble

Throttle body assy not synchronizing

Engine oil viscosity too high

Drive train trouble

Brake dragging

Clutch slipping

Engine overheating

Air suction valve trouble

Air switching valve trouble

Poor Running or No Power at High Speed:

Firing incorrect:

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

Spark plug incorrect

Stick coil shorted or not in good contact

Stick coil trouble

ECU trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing

Throttle body assy holder loose

Air cleaner housing holder loose

Water or foreign matter in fuel

Fuel to fuel injector insufficient

Fuel tank air vent obstructed

Fuel line clogged

Fuel pump trouble

Compression low:

Spark plug loose

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down

No valve clearance

Cylinder, piston worn

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Cylinder head gasket damaged

Cylinder head warped

Valve spring broken or weak

Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface.)

Knocking:

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Fuel poor quality or incorrect

Spark plug incorrect

ECU trouble

Miscellaneous:

Throttle valve won’t fully open

Brake dragging

Clutch slipping

Engine overheating

Engine oil level too high

Engine oil viscosity too high

Drive train trouble

Camshaft cam worn

Air suction valve trouble

Air switching valve trouble

Catalytic convertermelt down due to muffler overheating (KLEEN)

Overheating:

Firing incorrect:

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

Spark plug incorrect

ECU trouble

Muffler overheating:

For KLEEN, do not run the engine even if with only one cylinder misfiring or poor running (Request the nearest service facility to correct it)

For KLEEN, do not push-start with a dead battery (Connect another full-charged battery with jumper cables, and start the engine using the electric starter)

For KLEEN, do not start the engine under misfire due to spark plug fouling or poor connection of the stick coil

For KLEEN, do not coast the motorcycle with the ignition switch off (Turn the ignition switch ON and run the engine) ECU trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Throttle body assy holder loose

Air cleaner housing holder loose

Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing

Air cleaner clogged

Compression high:

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Engine load faulty:

Brake dragging

Clutch slipping

Engine oil level too high

Engine oil viscosity too high

Drive train trouble

Lubrication inadequate:

Engine oil level too low

Engine oil poor quality or incorrect

Oil cooler incorrect:

Oil cooler clogged

Water temperature meter incorrect:

Water temperature meter broken

Water temperature sensor broken

Coolant incorrect:

Coolant level too low

Coolant deteriorated

Wrong coolant mixed ratio

Cooling system component incorrect:

Radiator fin damaged

Radiator clogged

Thermostat trouble

Radiator cap trouble

Radiator fan relay trouble

Fan motor broken

Fan blade damaged

Water pump not turning

Water pump impeller damaged

Over Cooling:

Water temperature meter incorrect:

Water temperature meter broken

Water temperature sensor broken

Cooling system component incorrect:

Thermostat trouble

Clutch Operation Faulty:

Clutch slipping:

Friction plate worn or warped

Steel plate worn or warped

Clutch spring broken or weak

Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn

No clutch lever play

Clutch inner cable trouble

Clutch release mechanism trouble

Clutch not disengaging properly:

Clutch plate warped or too rough

Clutch spring compression uneven

Engine oil deteriorated

Engine oil viscosity too high

Engine oil level too high

Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft

Clutch hub nut loose

Sub clutch hub spline damaged

Clutch friction plate installed wrong

Clutch lever play excessive

Clutch release mechanism trouble

Gear Shifting Faulty:

Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return:

Clutch not disengaging

Shift fork bent or seized

Gear stuck on the shaft

Gear positioning lever binding

Shift return spring weak or broken

Shift return spring pin loose

Shift ratchet assembly spring broken

Shift ratchet assembly broken

Shift pawl broken

Jumps out of gear:

Shift fork ear worn, bent

Gear groove worn

Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn

Shift drum groove worn

Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken

Shift fork guide pin worn

Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn

Overshifts:

Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken

Shift ratchet assembly spring weak or broken

Abnormal Engine Noise:

Knocking:

ECU trouble

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Fuel poor quality or incorrect

Spark plug incorrect

Overheating

Piston slap:

Cylinder/piston clearance excessive

Cylinder, piston worn

Connecting rod bent

Piston pin, piston pin hole worn

Valve noise:

Valve clearance incorrect

Valve spring broken or weak

Camshaft bearing worn

Valve lifter worn

Other noise:

Connecting rod small end clearance excessive

Connecting rod big end clearance excessive

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck

Piston ring groove worn

Piston seizure, damage

Cylinder head gasket leaking

Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection

Crankshaft runout excessive

Engine mounting portions loose

Crankshaft bearing worn

Primary gear worn or chipped

Camshaft chain tensioner trouble

Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn

Air suction valve damaged

Air switching valve damaged

Alternator rotor loose

Catalytic convertermelt down due to muffler overheating (KLEEN)

Exhaust butterfly valve cable loose

Balancer gear worn or chipped

Balancer shaft position maladjusted

Balancer bearing worn

Balancer rubber damper damaged

Abnormal Drive Train Noise:

Clutch noise:

Clutch damper weak or damaged

Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive

Clutch housing gear worn

Wrong installation of outside friction plate

Transmission noise:

Bearings worn

Transmission gear worn or chipped

Metal chips jammed in gear teeth

Engine oil insufficient

Drive line noise:

Drive chain adjusted improperly

Drive chain worn

Rear and/or engine sprocket worn

Chain lubrication insufficient

Rear wheel misaligned

Abnormal Frame Noise:

Front fork noise:

Oil insufficient or too thin

Spring weak or broken

Rear shock absorber noise:

Shock absorber damaged

Disc brake noise:

Pad installed incorrectly

Pad surface glazed

Disc warped

Caliper trouble

Other noise:

Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly mounted or tightened

Warning Indicator Light (Oil Pressure Warning) Doesn’t Go OFF:

Engine oil pump damaged

Engine oil screen clogged

Engine oil filter clogged

Engine oil level too low

Engine oil viscosity too low

Camshaft bearing worn

Crankshaft bearing worn

Oil pressure switch damaged

Wiring faulty

Relief valve stuck open

O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase damaged

Exhaust Smokes Excessively:

White smoke:

Piston oil ring worn

Cylinder worn

Valve oil seal damaged

Valve guide worn

Engine oil level too high

Black smoke:

Air cleaner clogged

Brown smoke:

Air cleaner housing holder loose

Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing

Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory:

Handlebar hard to turn:

Cable routing incorrect

Hose routing incorrect

Wiring routing incorrect

Steering stem nut too tight

Steering stem bearing damaged

Steering stem bearing lubrication inadequate

Steering stem bent

Tire air pressure too low

Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates:

Tire worn

Swingarm pivot bearing worn

Rim warped, or not balanced

Wheel bearing worn

Handlebar clamp bolt loose

Steering stem nut loose

Front, rear axle runout excessive

Engine mounting portions loose

Handlebar pulls to one side:

Frame bent

Wheel misalignment

Swingarm bent or twisted

Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive

Steering maladjusted

Front fork bent

Right and left front fork oil level uneven

Shock absorption unsatisfactory:

(Too hard)

Front fork oil excessive

Front fork oil viscosity too high

Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard

Tire air pressure too high

Front fork bent

(Too soft)

Tire air pressure too low

Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking

Front fork oil viscosity too low

Rear shock adjustment too soft

Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak

Rear shock absorber oil leaking

Brake Doesn’t Hold:

Air in the brake line

Pad or disc worn

Brake fluid leakage

Disc warped

Contaminated pad

Brake fluid deteriorated

Primary or secondary cup damaged in master cylinder

Master cylinder scratched inside

Battery Trouble:

Battery discharged:

Charge insufficient

Battery faulty (too low terminal voltage)

Battery cable making poor contact

Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive wattage)

Ignition switch trouble

Alternator trouble

Wiring faulty

Regulator/rectifier trouble

Battery overcharged:

Alternator trouble

Regulator/rectifier trouble

Battery faulty